Tanami track and first week in WA

This morning we set off for Halls Creek via the Tanami track, which is 1077km from Alice Springs. We made good progress, about 430kms a little under half so a big day ahead tomorrow to try and complete! Have done some stats which I will post on the White Coast Red Centre blog soon. We are staying at one of the rest stops so it is nice to have a few others around for safety. Its a long old road with not much to see except the dust of other vehicles, termite mounds and a bit of vegetation. Anyway tomorrow we will be in WA, will check in later.

We made it in 2 days, arriving in Halls Creek at just after 4pm WA time, so were on the road 9 1/2 hours! Early dinner of pizza at the hotel bar before back for some TV and then well earnt sleep.
No time to rest, next stop Purnululu (Bungle Bungles). 53km 4wd track in from main road which took about 2 hours so just time to setup camp before dong a sunset viewing. Sunset is now around 5pm as WA has no daylight savings time.

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Sunset over the Bungle Bungles

First full day and we did a couple of walks in the North of the park, Cathedral Gorge and The Domes followed by lunch in Picaninni. Heating up by then so returned to camp for a rest and a camp shower. Booked a 3rd night here too.

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Cathedral Gorge there were muicians recording in the ampitheatre

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Amazing second morning walk to Echidna Chasm,  its one if the reasons this national park has world heritage listing. We stayed for the best time of day when the sun shines into the chasm. Just amazing. Also watched sunset and shot it over the ranges as it set, colours beautiful. Now watching the stars from the comfort of my tent. Warm and clear night.

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Priscilla at Stonehenge, Purnululu
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Echidna Chasm
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Sun about to break into the gap
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Chasm colours and textures

Arrived in Kunanarra at a great campsite today, for 5 nights to explore a few places and prepare for the next big challenge, the Gibb River Road through to Broome!

More of NT

After a rain drenching weekend based in Alice Springs (inside accomodation thank goodness) we have been able to hit the road again and have headed firstly to the West Mcdonnell Ranges and made our base at Glen Helen gorge in the camping grounds at the homestead. Its a great spot and the weather being cooler and calmer is a relief. There has been some flooding of the Finke River over the weekend so we cant walk all the way to the gorge at the moment and some of the roads we want to travel on are currently closed, so we will see how the week pans out. In the meantime, have some time to explore and enjoy this beautiful view and some of the other gorges.

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Glen Helen Gorge

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More exploring of the gorges and creeks of the Western MacDonnell ranges with some hidden treasures. Not enough time to do all the walks on offer so just had a bit of a taster from each locatiin and still managed a few steps. Last spot Ellery Creek Big Hole was my favourite, would have been a great swimming holem but way too cold today. Didnt phase one guy who headed out in his wetsuit!

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Ellery Creek Big Hole
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Ochre cliffs
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Ormiston Gorge

A proper bush camp at Chambers Pillar tonight after some adventurous tracks with water and mud left over from the weekend rains. Only ones at the campsite which is a bit unusual. So quiet except for the wind. Took the opportunity and did a sunset and night sky shoot of the pillar. Just a gentle breeze on the tent and a few night birds….this is bush camping.
Lots of campers at Rainbow Valley tonight, invited over to share the campfire with 2 couples staying the night. Sharing our journey so far and hearing a bit about where they have been. Its a cold one tonight, putting on some layers and the thermal insert in the sleeping bag.
About to head to dinner at the Chifley, our indulgence before tackling the Tanami track tomorrow!

Northern Territory

Have now been in the Northern Territory for a few weeks. We spent a week at the inspiring Uluru and Kata Tjitu exploring, doing some short walks, 2 sunsets and 1 sunrise. Its a very special spot in the world, each day it is different and while we had a lot of overcast conditions, it was great seeing the rock change and even dodging rain showers which was a little unexpected. We only missed seeing the rock with water running down it in the rain by about a week!

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On our second night we went to something called Field of Lights, a light installation with Ayers Rock as the backdrop. Only here for a year so lucky to have the opportunity to see it light up as the sunset and then walk amongst the ‘fields’

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Next stop was then Kings Canyon, we arrived and setup camp and then watched sunset with a glass of wine and then the next day we did the hike around the rim of the canyon. Took us about 4 hours with some steep climbs but absolutely amazing. Such a beautiful and varied landscape ranging from rocky spots to an area called the Garden of Eden which was a tranquil waterhole. Amazing..

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Garden of Eden reflections

Then we travelled to Palm Valley with a short stop at Hermannsburg for their renowned apple streudel and icecream, some wild brumby sightings on route, where we setup camp for 2 nights.  Yesterday we explored the area with a 4wd track out to the end of the track, Palm Valley (very rocky and definitely 4wd only), including Cycad Gorge, and then we did the Arankala walk which was amazing. After lunch we then went off to see the Kalarranga lookout, just a short walk but amazing views. Just a small selection of images from both walks.

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Just love these amazing trees growing on the rocks
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The lookout
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Colours of Palm Valley

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While at Palm Valley we were advised by a ranger of approaching weather front over the weekend, so we changed our plans a bit and headed to Alice Springs for a few nights indoors before hopefully heading back into the park for a few more nights early next week. Still lots to see!!

Coober Pedy

Its 7:00am in the morning and I am lying in pitch black, yet the sun is out. Its a rather strange experience to be living underground. To be honest I wasnt sure if I would like it at all, but the underground apartment we chose for a couple of nights recharge is very comfortable and warm and quiet inside. I forget that I am effectively below the ground. Had a great day exploring yesterday and also purchased some opal. An interesting place Coober Pedy, and a very different lifestyle!

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Headed off from comfort back to flies today and camped up at Arkaringa homestead in the small tents. Did a bit if a drive through the nearby Painted Desert, the colours are just amazing and we have blue sky sunny days at the moment.

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Stopped at Oonadatta and the pink roadhouse, onroute to a campsite at Hamilton Station. Flies are still bad and driving me nuts 😯

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Travelled from our bush camp at Hamilton Station to Mt Dare today, about 5 hours of fairly rough tracks, but a nice friendly stop with a cider to mark Anzac Day today.
And finally crossed the SA/NT border and visited the geographical centre of Australia (and signed the book)! Crappy roadhouse stop and then heading for the rock tomorrow!!

Lake Eyre and the ‘outback’

We have been moving slowly north and are truly in ‘the outback’.  Spent a few nights in Maree, the higlight being the Maree Hotel which had a lot of character and excellent meals, but there was not much more to the town really with most things rundown or closed. We did a night sky shoot and then caught up on washing and photo downloads. Our campsite was basic and a bit run down so I was pleased to escape to keep moving on.  Then we stayed at Coward Springs which was quite nice, situated about halfway towards William Creek. The flies are brutal and fly nets are vital and then when they go to bed the mozzies come out. Its was a busy campsite so there are obviously others traversing the Oonadatta Track. Landscape is lunar like so far cant wait to see it from the air. Have not had phone or internet for a few days so I will post this when I can.

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Lake Eyre South
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Mound Springs

Arrived in William Creek for a few nights. Flights over the lake on Wednesday and exploring the national park a bit tomorrow. Flies are still horrible, thank god for fly nets and a large tent to sit inside and take refuge…oh and the pub!!
Great day exploring some more lake locations with a fab spot at Halligans Bay. Vegemite and fly sandwich for lunch and then a bit more exploring before a drink and sausage roll at the pub. Also paid for flight which is early in the morning.

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Salt encrusted Lake Eyre North
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Lake from ABC Bay

Been looking forward to flights we took this morning over Lake Eyre North and Painted Desert and they did not disapoint, so many colours textures and water in the lake, a rare occurrence. Some will need to be processed but here is a taster.

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Painted Desert
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Lake Eyre North
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Lake Eyre Landscape

Spending time in the ranges

The last few days have been spent exploring the Ikara Flinders Ranges in completely different ways. First day we took a self guided 4wd drive on the Arkepena track. I did some of the Awd section, some of which was challengng and then Kath took us up and the down some challenging 4wd tracks. It was a heart rate pumping trip in parts but lots of fun and great vistas. Second day we went to Wilpena Pound and took a 2 hour walking trail to emerse in the landscape. We then had some lunch and stocked up at the shop before heading back to camp to wash clothes. We then did a sunset shoot from a nearby lookout. A few other photographers had the same idea as well as a rogue bee who got entangled in my hair and gave me a right old sting on the neck. I already have a swollen eye so the icepacks and cold flannel are getting a workout at the moment.

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View from Prelinna lookout at the top of the Arkepena track
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Awd part of the track

Out third day based here we decided to try a 4wd track which lead down to Lake Torrens. It was a great mixture of track surfaces including some sand and took us to the ancient Lake Torrens with the Pernatty Hills in the background. On way there was lots to see using the excellent self guided instructions from the Merna Mora tours. We had kangaroos in large groups jumping alongside us or crossing the road and jumping fences. Quite an experience. There were also emu, cows, horses and sheep on route.

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Bit blurry but you get the idea
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Lake Torrens

And finally just back with some phone reception after spending 2 nights bush camping at Alpana homestead “Bills paddock”. Many highlights including viewing a number of gorges and a 4wd to Hannigans Gap, first bush shower, toasting marshmallows over an open fire, shooting the night sky and quondong pie at the Blinman local store. The landscapes and vista have been so diverse and beautiful!

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Windmill on Lake Torrens track
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Hannigans Gap old car
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Beltana historic town

Flinders Ranges

After a massive repack, washing and shopping and final catchup via Adelaide, we set our sights towards the Ikara Flinders Ranges. After a lateish departure we decided not to camp, so instead took a basic cabin at Port Pirie for the night. It was raining on arrival but by the morning the sun had returned and we set off towards the central part of the ranges. Stops at Quorn at the tourist office and the Picci Ricci railway and then a lunch stop and fuel at Hawker before heading into the scenic ranges landscape, our first glimpse of the ranges. We have decided to stop at Rawnsley Park for 4 nights to make the most of the 4wd tracks and options available in the area. Campsite is nice with large camp kitchen and even a small store for supplies. Seems like a good base to explore the area from. Currently listening to the birds and watching the sun bathe and dip behind the ranges as the sun from the day dissapears. Might be time for some slippers and a glass of wine 🙂

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Kangaroo Island, SA

Kangaroo Island has been an enjoyable 4 days of varied weather, different landscapes and lots of wildlife.

Day 1 we arrived on the morning ferry and drove down to our campsite on the Western side of the island in the Flinders Chase National Park.  We went via a honey farm and eucalyptus distillery and spotted our first wildlife, a koala in our campsite tree.

Day 2 we explored some of the more rugged areas, with Cape Borda lighthouse and some of the northern coastal beaches.

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Constitution Hill

Day 3 was the great Seal Bay and a chance to take the big lens down for some closeup shots of the seals.  This was followed by a couple of the southern beaches, basked in sun and all a little bit different and finally Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch, two of my favourites.

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Remarkable Rocks

Day 4 the rains arrived but not before visiting Kingscote, American River and then Sunset Winery before arriving at the Penneshaw YHA for our last night.

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Playing with waves at Admirals Arch

Great few days, now back over to Adelaide for some washing and stocking up for the next leg.

Fleurieu Peninsular, South Australia

After departing the warm comfy surrounds of Adelaide, we headed to the coast with an over night stay and first shoot in Port Elliot as the evening sunset..photos to be processed from this one, nice night getting back to grips with the camera again.. Packed up camp and then spent the morning in Victor Harbor with a great walk around granite island.

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Reminded me of the occasional weekend visits as a kid, the horse drawn cart up the jetty still even running!

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Horse drawn to Granite island

After some lunch in the park we then drove onto Cape Jervis, room for the night a farmstay cottage, comfy and nice and close to the ferry for an early departure this morning.

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After a quick tea and scone off the ferry, then explored a honey farm and eucalyptus farm before lunch stop and onto our camp for 3 nights in West KI. Nice spot…quite a few people but spread out. Maggies are curious here 😀 tie to relax!

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Easter Time

It’s Easter now and time to take a few days breather in Adelaide with my family, to relax and enjoy the sun – and chocolate again on Easter Sunday! (gave it up for lent).  Over 1500kms travelled to come from Sydney and never has there been a better time to remind myself that pacing ourselves is going to be extremely important on this adventure.  That and smart packing, which will evolve and develop over time 🙂

The next month, after Easter will be mainly focused on exploring some different parts of South Australia.  It is going to range from a nice ease into it start at Kangaroo Island and then tackle some more challenging places like Flinders Ranges and Lake Eyre.  There are many challenges and amazing landscapes to explore – after a few days rest and re-charge I am planning to be ready and raring to go.

Really enjoyed the changing landscapes travelling over from Sydney – I admit I took a few from the car window, to start to get a feel for the colours and textures that await.

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